Living in the Shadow of Fuji: A Personal Reflection on Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha
There’s something quietly profound about living near a place that has been sacred for over a thousand years. For my Japanese family, home is not just defined by streets and houses—it is shaped by the ever-present silhouette of Mount Fuji. Close to this holly mountain, you can find the Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha (富士山本宮浅間大社), a shrine that has watched over generations beneath the ever-present silhouette of Mount Fuji.
A Shrine That Breathes With the Mountain
Unlike many historical sites that feel distant from everyday life, Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha is deeply woven into the rhythm of the community. Visits to the shrine aren’t reserved for special occasions—they happen naturally. A quiet walk, a New Year prayer, or a moment of reflection by the clear waters of Wakutama Pond all become part of daily life.
Growing up around this environment (or even just visiting often), you begin to understand that Mount Fuji is not simply scenery. It is a presence. In the Shinto worldview, it is alive—home to the kami, especially Konohanasakuya-hime, whose story embodies both beauty and fragility.
From Fear to Reverence
Historically, Mount Fuji was feared for its eruptions. The shrine itself was established as a way to calm and honor the spirit of the mountain by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Today, that history still lingers, but it has transformed into something more balanced: a deep respect rather than fear.
Living nearby, you don’t constantly think about volcanic danger. Instead, you notice the changing light on Fuji’s slopes, the seasonal festivals, and the steady flow of visitors beginning their pilgrimage. The mountain becomes both ordinary and extraordinary at the same time.
The Meaning of Everyday Ritual
One of the most striking things about having such a sacred place close to home is how spirituality becomes subtle. It’s not always grand or ceremonial.
It might be:
Pausing briefly at the shrine gate before heading into town
Washing hands at the purification basin without thinking twice
Watching the still surface of Wakutama Pond reflect the sky
These small actions echo centuries of tradition, connecting the present moment to something much older.
A Personal Connection
For my family, the shrine is not just a cultural landmark—it’s part of our identity. It’s where celebrations begin, where prayers are made, and where we return in moments of uncertainty.
Being close to Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha means growing up with an unspoken understanding: nature is not separate from us. It deserves respect, attention, and humility.
And perhaps that’s the most powerful lesson this place offers—not just to visitors or pilgrims, but to those lucky enough to call it part of home.
Closing Thoughts
In a fast-moving world, places like Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha remind us to slow down. To look up at the mountain. To listen to the quiet. To recognize that some connections—between people, place, and spirit—are meant to last far longer than a lifetime.
Living near Fuji isn’t just about proximity. It’s about perspective.
In the practice of Iaido (居合道), Battodo (抜刀道), and Kenjutsu (剣術), we often focus on the physical alignment of the blade or the precision of a cut. But for the practitioner of Mugai-ryū (無外流), the ultimate challenge lies within the mind. At the core of our lineage is the concept of Muga (無我).
The Origin: A Poem of Enlightenment
The name of our school itself is rooted in a profound spiritual realization. The founder, Tsuji Gettan Sukemochi (辻月丹資茂), reached enlightenment after years of deep Zen meditation at the Kyōun-ji (慶運寺) temple.
The name “Mugai” comes from a verse in a poem he received from his master:
Ippō mugai nashi (一法無外)
Nyoze dō dō dō (如是道同)
This translates to: “There is no law outside the One Truth; It is everywhere the same.” The word Mugai (無外) means “Nothing Outside.” It implies that there is no separation between the self and the universe. From this flows Muga (無我) — the state of Non-Self.
The famous poem that helped found Mugai-ryu
What is Muga (無我)?
In Japanese, Mu (無) means “nothingness” or “void,” and Ga (我) means “self” or “ego.”
In our daily lives, our Ego (我) is always busy. It judges our performance, fears failure, and seeks praise. In Budō (武道), this ego is an obstacle. It creates tension in the shoulders and hesitation in the spirit.Muga is the process of stripping away this “I.” When the ego is absent, there is no “me” trying to cut; there is only the movement happening in perfect synchronicity.
Muga in Battodo (抜刀道): The Pure Cut
In Battodo, when facing a Wara (藁 – straw mat), the ego often whispers: “Don’t miss,” or “Make a perfect angle.” This thought creates a physical “hitch.”
By seeking Muga, we aim for Mushin (無心 – empty mind). In this state, the Tenouchi (手の内 – the grip) and the Maai (間合い – the distance) are not calculated by the brain, but felt by the soul. The sword becomes an extension of your nervous system, and the cut becomes an effortless expression of reality.
Muga in Kenjutsu (剣術): The Absence of the Opponent
While Iaido is often a solitary pursuit, it is in Kenjutsu (the art of the sword in combat) that Muga undergoes its most intense test. When facing an opponent in Kumitachi (組太刀), the ego naturally reacts with fear or aggression.
In a state of Muga, the opponent is no longer viewed as an enemy to be defeated, but as a mirror. You do not “react” to a strike; instead, your body moves in Shizen-tai (自然体 – natural posture) before a conscious thought even arises. This is the expression of Munami (無波 – “no waves”), where the mind remains undisturbed. By losing the “Self” (Ga), you also lose the “Other.” The dualism of winning and losing simply ceases to exist.
My conclusion with the Ken Zen Ichi Nyo (剣禅一如) Concept
My Liomugai journey is a journey toward this “Non-Self.” Each Kata (型) is an opportunity to shed a layer of vanity. We do not polish the steel to see our reflection; we polish it to understand the void behind the reflection.
As the old saying goes: Ken Zen Ichi Nyo (剣禅一如) — The Sword and Zen are one. Through the discipline of the blade, we find the silence within.
Most travelers visit Hiroshima to witness the scars of history—an essential pilgrimage for anyone visiting Japan. Walking through the city is an experience beyond “emotional”; it is difficult to pin down a single feeling when the mood shifts like a tide. Yet, as a practitioner of Budo, I found that a single day here offers something deeper: a profound lesson in Resilience (see my post on Fudōshin) and the evolution from the “Sword that Kills” to the “Sword that Gives Life.” If you have 24 hours in this rebuilt metropolis, here is how to navigate its complex emotional and historical layers.
If you have 24 hours in this rebuilt metropolis, here is how to navigate the emotional and historical layers of Hiroshima.
1. The Genbaku Dome: A Frozen Moment in Time
I started my journey at the A-Bomb Dome. It is a heavy, visceral sight. This structure—the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall—was nearly at the epicenter of the 1945 explosion. Though the rest of Hiroshima was flattened, these columns refused to fall. Eighty years later, the Dome remains frozen in time: a stark reminder of total destruction and an icon of human resilience.
My Tip: Arrive early (before 8:30 AM). The morning light hitting the exposed red bricks against the quiet flow of the Motoyasu River creates a space for silent contemplation before the crowds arrive.
2. The Peace Memorial Park: The Heart of Remembrance
Crossing the bridge from the Dome, you enter the Peace Memorial Park. This isn’t just a park; it’s a sacred space designed by the legendary architect Kenzo Tange.
The Cenotaph and the Flame of Peace
I spent a long time at the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims. Its saddle-like shape is designed to shield the souls of the deceased. If you stand at the center, you can look through the arch to see the Flame of Peace.
The Vow: This flame will burn until every nuclear weapon on earth has been dismantled.
As a martial artist, this site resonates with the concept of Katsujinken (活人剣)—the “Life-Giving Sword.” It reminds us that the ultimate goal of mastery is not conflict, but the preservation of peace.
3. Lunch: Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki
You cannot visit Hiroshima without trying their soul food. Unlike the Osaka version, Hiroshima Okonomiyaki is layered, featuring noodles (soba or udon) and a generous portion of cabbage.
My Tip: Head to Okonomimura (Okonomi Village), a building with three floors of small stalls. It’s the perfect “Ha” (break) in your day to refuel.
4. Hiroshima Castle: The Return of the Carp
After the emotional weight of the morning, I walked 15 minutes north to Hiroshima Castle (Rijō or “Carp Castle”).
Originally built in 1589, the castle was a total loss in 1945. However, its 1958 reconstruction is a stunning tribute to the city’s samurai origins.
What to Look For:
The Survival Trees (A-Bombed Trees): Inside the castle walls, look for the Eucalyptus and Willow trees. Despite being charred by the heat of the blast, they survived and continue to grow today. They are living symbols of the samurai spirit—unyielding and rooted.
The Museum: The interior of the keep houses an excellent collection of Edo-period armor and katanas. For an Iaidoka, seeing the local craftsmanship and the history of the Asano clan is a must.
The View: Climb to the 5th floor for a panoramic view of the city. Seeing the modern skyline from a traditional fortress gives you a true sense of Japan’s ability to honor the past while embracing the future.
Practical Information for Your Visit
Location
Suggested Time
Entry Fee
Genbaku Dome
30 mins
Free
Peace Museum
2 hours
200 JPY
Hiroshima Castle
1.5 hours
370 JPY
How to get around: Use the Hiroden (the iconic streetcars). They are a living piece of history—some of the trams running today actually survived the 1945 bombing and were back on the tracks just three days later.
My day in Hiroshima followed the rhythm of Jo-Ha-Kyū:
Jo (Begin): The somber, slow realization at the Dome.
Ha (Break): The movement through the park and the vibrant energy of the city streets.
Kyū (Fast/End): The ascent to the top of the Castle, looking out over a city that refused to die.
If you are intreseted in the Budo Jo Ha Kyū concept, please have a look on my dedicated post.
Hiroshima is more than a tragic history; it is a vibrant, green, and welcoming city that embodies the very essence of Budo: the strength to remain calm and kind, no matter what storms have passed.
If you have ever watched a Mugai-ryū master perform a kata, or if you have attended a tea ceremony (Chanoyu), you have likely sensed an invisible progression. It isn’t a constant speed, but rather a wave that builds, breaks, and stops dead.
This ternary rhythm is Jo-Ha-Kyū (序破急).
Far more than a simple technical instruction, it is an aesthetic and spiritual law that governs almost all traditional Japanese arts. Let’s dive into this essential concept to understand the dynamics of the sword and Japanese culture.
What is Jo-Ha-Kyū?
The term is composed of three kanji that define the phases of a movement or an event:
Jo (序) – The Introduction: Begin slowly, with restraint. This is the moment of concentration, setting the posture, and grounding the breath.
Ha (破) – The Rupture: The movement develops and accelerates. One “breaks” the initial calm. This is where the action takes shape and unfolds.
Kyū (急) – The Culmination: A sudden, lightning-fast acceleration—the peak of the movement that ends sharply and decisively.
Did you know? This concept was theorized by Zeami Motokiyo, the founder of Noh theater, in the 14th century. He believed that everything in the universe—from a bird’s song to an entire play—followed this natural rhythm.
Jo-Ha-Kyū in Mugai-ryū Iaihyōdō
In Iaido, and particularly in the minimalist style of Mugai-ryū, Jo-Ha-Kyū is what distinguishes a mechanical execution from a demonstration of life (Sei).
The Art of Nukitsuke (Drawing the Sword)
Watch a Nukitsuke closely:
Jo: The hand grasps the Tsuka, the thumb releases the Tsuba (Koiguchi no kirikata). It is an internal movement, almost invisible.
Ha: The sword exits the scabbard (Saza-muchi), speed increasing as the blade glides.
Kyū: The tip clears the scabbard and strikes in a flash. The stop is instantaneous, charged with energy (Zanshin).
If you maintain the same speed from start to finish, your movement becomes predictable. Jo-Ha-Kyū allows you to surprise your opponent by shattering their own rhythm.
A Universal Aesthetic: From Noh Theater to the Tea Ceremony
The genius of this concept is that it applies to fields that seem polar opposites to combat.
In Noh Theater
A Noh play begins with slow, solemn gestures. Gradually, the movements become more complex, the music intensifies, finally ending in a fast, percussive dance before the final silence. Without this rhythm, the audience would lose focus; with it, they are transported into a trance.
In the Way of Tea (Sado)
Even when serving a bowl of matcha, the master follows this curve:
Jo: The slow and meticulous cleaning of the utensils.
Ha: The preparation of the tea, with more fluid and dynamic movements.
Kyū: The final gesture of presenting the bowl, precise and without hesitation.
Why is it important for your practice?
Mastering Jo-Ha-Kyū means learning to manage your energy.
In our modern lives, we are often in permanent “Kyū” mode (urgency, speed). Practicing Iaido forces us to rediscover “Jo” (preparation, conscious slowness).
Dojo Tips:
Don’t rush: A start that is too fast often ruins the end of the movement.
Breathe: Use the inhale for Jo, the breath-hold or controlled exhale for Ha, and the explosive exhale for Kyū.
Observe nature: Think of a water droplet gathering on a leaf (Jo), beginning to slide (Ha), and falling abruptly (Kyū).
Jo-Ha-Kyū is the heartbeat of Budo. By seeking this rhythm in your katas, you are no longer just working your muscles, but your presence in the world. The sword then becomes an extension of this universal pulse.
Whenever I visit my Japanese family’s hometown near Mount Fuji, there’s one place I always try to go back to. It’s not a big city, not a famous temple, and not one of the crowded viewpoints of Fuji.
It’s a quiet waterfall hidden in the forest called Shiraito Falls.
The first time my family took me there, I didn’t really know what to expect. Japan has many waterfalls, after all. But as we walked down the forest path and I heard the sound of water echoing through the trees, I realized this place felt different.
Shiraito Falls isn’t dramatic or overwhelming. Instead, it’s peaceful, delicate, and strangely mesmerizing—the kind of place where you end up standing still for a long time without even noticing.
The Short Walk to the Falls
Getting to Shiraito Falls is part of the experience.
From the parking area, you follow a small path that slowly winds downhill through the trees. It’s not a long walk, but the atmosphere gradually changes as you go.
The air becomes cooler. The forest feels thicker. And the sound of water begins to grow louder with every step.
My family always walks slowly here, pointing out little things along the way—moss growing on rocks, small streams crossing the path, and sometimes the distant shape of Mount Fuji visible between the trees.
Then suddenly the path opens up.
And there it is.
Waterfall Made of “White Threads”
The first time you see Shiraito Falls, the shape of it might surprise you.
Most waterfalls crash down from a single point. This one doesn’t. Instead, water flows out from hundreds of small openings along a curved cliff face.
The streams fall gently down the dark rock, forming thin white lines across the entire wall. From a distance, it really does look like hundreds of threads hanging in the air.
That’s exactly where the name comes from—“Shiraito” means “white threads.”
The waterfall stretches about 150 meters wide, but it’s not especially tall. The beauty isn’t in its height or power. It’s in the delicate way the water flows.
Every stream moves slightly differently, creating a constantly shifting pattern.
I remember standing there the first time and thinking it almost looked like nature was quietly weaving something.
Water From Mount Fuji
Another thing that makes Shiraito Falls special is where the water comes from.
The water actually starts its journey on Mount Fuji. Rain and snow on the mountain slowly seep into the volcanic layers of rock and soil. Over time—sometimes years—it travels underground before finally emerging from the cliff at Shiraito.
So when you’re standing there watching the water fall, you’re really seeing water that has been slowly filtered through the mountain itself.
It’s incredibly clear and pure. When the sunlight hits the mist rising from the basin, you can sometimes see faint rainbows forming in the air.
In Shinto, the traditional belief system of Japan, natural places like mountains, forests, rivers, and waterfalls are believed to be inhabited by spiritual presences called kami.
These aren’t “gods” in the way many Western religions think of them. They’re more like sacred energies or spirits connected to the natural world.
Waterfalls are especially meaningful because flowing water represents purification.
For centuries, people practiced a ritual called misogi, where they stood under cold waterfalls or in rivers to cleanse their body and spirit. The rushing water symbolically washes away impurities.
Shiraito Falls has long been connected to spiritual practices linked to Mount Fuji. Pilgrims and mountain ascetics would visit places like this as part of their training before climbing the sacred mountain.
Whenever friends ask me what they should see around Mount Fuji, they usually expect recommendations for famous viewpoints or big tourist attractions.
I always recommend them to go to walk around the Tanuki Lake and to visit Shiraito Falls.
In my Japanese family, the falls are a place of deep significance, visited to honor life’s most important moments. These pilgrimages are more than just trips; they are key milestones that connect our generations. My own martial path—from my teenage years in Goju-ryu to my current role as a Uechi-ryu teacher—is deeply tied to this imagery. I often recall the legendary Gogen Yamaguchi practicing misogi under the cascade, a powerful symbol of the discipline I strive to follow.
